Etvoilà, La Grande Finale! Yes, with five days of the best men’s fashion offered by Paris after two whirlwinds in London and Milan, the other two fashion centers in Europe, we are now in the final stages. increase. As always, we’ve put together the longest fashion week in June and posted the latest information on the latest events here every day. Want to know about the latest wacky warpouts for Glenn Martens’ Y / Project? What is the long-awaited return schedule for Kom and Junya to Paris? Or what was Louis Vuitton’s first full collection designed after Virgil Abloh’s death? Well, here you will find!
Image courtesy of gorunway.com
Since winning the ANDAM Award last year, Bianca Saunders is a designer whose stars are definitely rising. It was proved when I saw an enthusiastic crowd gathered together at the start of the second show in Paris, a London-based designer. Because of their early rising, they were treated as “hard food”. This is a collection named after the starchy accompaniment of typical Jamaican cuisine, dumplings, yams and plantains. A clear nod to Bianca’s own Jamaican heritage (her brand’s through line), but it certainly may look like a pretty esoteric title in her fashion collection in her first reading. But it was in favor of the implicit contradiction it embodies. This means that when preparing hard food, it’s actually quite soft.
A similar sense of contrast was conveyed to the clothes. Bianca’s signature block-shaped drape shoulders and the robustness of a stark denim jacket with a huge leather bomber that plunges low at the front are complemented by a rainbow-colored satin ruche twin set. It features a drape that slightly swoops down to the chest. This duality reveals a draped back with a structured trench coat spinning and quivering, with dome-shaped canvas-like trousers gathering backwards on cotton poplin, providing information to individual pieces as well. Provided.
Elsewhere, Bianca expanded the visual scope of her universe with crafted prints and new finishes. The looks of silver foil leather add a bit of charm to the mix. It’s like a static TV. The grid print is distorted, mimicking the bulge of the lower body. This season’s signature graphics are actually hand-collaged distortions of hard food gradual recipes, making the metaphorical interpretation of the starting point of the collection a perfect circle. .. Bianca is the most extensive and ambitious collection to date, demonstrating exactly why people are coming back and queuing whatever she offers. MS
Image courtesy of John Alexander Skeleton
John Alexander Skeleton
John Alexander Skeleton is not in perfect sync with much of the fashion industry and its restrictive commercial system. He stands on the forced newness of seasonal trends and the superficial nature of merchandising. John’s work is instead friendly, human, slow and small, thoughtful, and aesthetically unlikely to be made in London. It exists in a parallel world where the Industrial Revolution wasn’t completely panned out as it did, while devoting itself to Victoriana’s naivety. He jumps into the material history of clothing, the beauty of the fabric, and the stories contained in the various silhouettes.
His SS23 collection is a continuation of the story of his work last season, especially the character of Benjamin Pollock, the owner of a Victorian toy store. “I found it a pleasure to project onto a little-known character, and I have the freedom to allow my mind to wonder,” explained John. So John began to think about Benjamin’s summer wardrobe, and thus his hobbies and interests, his life in Victorian London and life in general.
Research, whether historical or the fabric itself, is at the heart of many of the skeleton’s fashion practices. Here, he turned to the lives of the Docklands and its surroundings, the past center of London’s heavy industry. “There is a feeling that the area had a particular exoticism with a mix of hard labor and various trades, benefiting from its proximity to the river, such as the leather tanning factory in Bermondsey,” he said. explained.
But the ruins of the past that exist today are also part of the collection, and John’s clothing finds sympathy between the two eras and goes in a timeless direction. The clothes here are also light. Soft linen, the playful over-feature of those multi-button shirts and jackets, the comfort of old sandals, the decorative appeal of embroidery and prints. John imagined Benjamin Pollock as a Madrak, foraging along the banks of the Thames where the lookbook was filmed, and through this bricolage he found a connection to the past. “There is some magic and wonder associated with the fact that fragments of these objects that were once owned by our ancestors are in the mud and pebbles of the foreshore that anyone can find,” John said. Explained.
But standing outside the system doesn’t make sense if you don’t provide what you don’t. That’s exactly what John is doing. His clothes exude an unusual humanity, which makes them very desirable. FP
Image courtesy of gorunway.com
At Palais de Tokyo, the first day of the Paris show has always been the host of EGONlab, one of the city’s busiest young labels. Since winning the Pierre Bergé Award at the ANDAM Awards last year, the label, run by the duo Florentin Glémarecet Kévin Nompeix, has built a reputation for its perfectly chic tailored silhouette, studded with high drama and club spirit. rice field. Ready sexy. This season, we’ve put all this together with Aprom into a collection that riffs old-fashioned themes. Alice in Wonderland.. With the exception of a handful of cartoon-style bunny prints, the story of trippy children seemed to be more translated into the general sense of escapism that permeated clothing. The splendor of the long lining cream wool overcoat and smock lace polo neck was countered by the vivid flair of black leather bitch shorts and thigh-high boots, with a tight vest top studded with pirates. .. Wide-legged denim jeans with a flashy, raw hem miniskirt on top were angry and suffering, but the shirt and pajamas-like trousers were Gotham fabric. MS
Image courtesy of gorunway.com
If you want to make a big first impression on your first show in Paris, the surest way to do that is to make the famous beautiful city terrain part of the show. In his debut presentation at the global fashion center, American label John Elliott did just that, visiting the roofs dotted with sculptures at the Pompidou Center (a high-tech museum in the heart of the city) for the latest collections. I exhibited it before I could see it. It captured the Eiffel Tower, the hills of Montmartre, and the speckled area of the zinc roof in between. It was a classic romantic setting, also leaning towards a classic romantic fashion vision. Composed of elevated, highly wearable staples, it was a widespread, wardrobe-oriented product. The wide set of round shoulder outerwear in light and dusty shades conveys a relaxed summery calm and a casual tone that echoes in mint green combat pants and boys and girls shorts. They were offset by more evening-tailored looks, such as an elegant slim suit styled with a gabardine overcoat and a thin tie, and a sexy dress seen towards the end of the show. These pieces, especially Cocktail Numbers, are the brand’s technical nous, with the sensibilities of revealing skin that informs knitwear divided by bands woven from invisible threads, drapes with bare sternum. Was shown. Overall, it was a confident proposal that showed vibrancy and diversity. This may have been John Elliott’s first presentation in Paris, but they seem to stay here. MS
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